‘You can taste the gentle biodynamic cultivation in the wine.’
‘Good soil management improves the quality of the wine.’
Highly regarded worldwide, biodynamic wines
A conversation between Antoine Kaufmann and the editorial team
The vine is a sensitive plant and reacts strongly to soil quality and the type of plant protection. This can be tasted in the wine. That is why winegrowers around the world appreciate biodynamic agriculture with its positive effect on soil fertility. The wines gain in flavour and personality.
You bought the previously conventionally run enterprise here in Klus in 2017. What made you decide to convert it to biodynamic farming?
I had the opportunity to run the organic vineyard Château Duvivier in the south of France for 20 years and to set an example there for greater biodiversity. A hands-on introductory course in biodynamic agriculture inspired me to conduct a three-year scientific comparison of organic and biodynamic farming at this vineyard together with FiBL. We compared soil samples and wine analytically and the wine also by tasting. I was surprised to find that after three years, the soil analyses showed higher levels of the trace elements boron and magnesium in the biodynamic variant – presumably due to the biodynamic preparations. The analysis of the biodynamic wine showed less acidity, but the professional blind tasting revealed that the wine was fresher and more acidic and was preferred, a very positive aspect. With these experiences I came here to Klus.
You swapped sunny Provence for the sometimes foggy Klus valley, not yet knowing what the change would mean for you. Looking back, what are your most important insights?
Conversion is a process that takes three to four years, during which time the biodynamic impulses gradually take effect in the soil and plants, slowly creating a new equilibrium. Simply spreading the biodynamic preparations is not enough. It is equally important to get to know each plot, as the soil and microclimate are not the same for each one. That is why the soil care and plant protection programme works perfectly in some plots and much less well in others. You have to know each plot well in this regard and learn from experience. With each new plot that is added, you start from scratch. Nature, like life, is often surprising. You never stop learning.
You have been developing your business since 2017. Which projects do you consider particularly noteworthy?
Three years ago, we removed some vines from one of our plots and planted trees in their place, creating a vitiforest. The trees are still growing. The vines thrive just as well as if there were no trees, and the plot's yield is only slightly lower due to the missing vines. The roots of the trees go deeper than those of the vine. During periods of extreme drought – and with global warming, these are becoming much more frequent – the trees pump moisture up from the depths, and this also benefits the vines.
A major concern for me is improving biodiversity in the Klus valley. Four years ago, on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the Aesch wine-growing cooperative, I suggested that we initiate joint action on biodiversity. Everyone agreed. With the help of Bird Life and a project manager, and with the support of the local council and various foundations, 300 metres of dry stone walls have already been built. Alongside this, we have planted hedges and built cairns. This joint activity also raised awareness of organic products. When we arrived, not a single square metre was organic. Now, in terms of area, it is already at 60 percent in the valley.
Back to your vineyard: what are the biggest differences between Provence and the Klus valley when it comes to viticulture?
The climate for the vines is completely different here, and there is also a greater challenge in terms of plant protection. The fungal pressure, i.e. downy mildew, is permanently much higher here. In my experience, nettle and horsetail tea strengthen and support the vines at this time, giving them energy. However, it is not quite enough to ward off the fungi. You also have to be realistic: in very wet years, increased effort is required for plant protection in all growing areas, despite plant-based teas and infusions, even with most fungus-resistant vines. Compliance with the Demeter guidelines is, of course, guaranteed.
If we understand this correctly, fungal pressure is a major challenge for biodynamic winemakers.
Yes, despite these difficulties, there has been enormous development. Over the past 15 years, a great many reference vineyards worldwide, as well as many young winemakers who work respectfully, have switched to organic or biodynamic farming methods. They have recognised that it is beneficial to look after the soil well. It is the capital, and careful biodynamic cultivation can be tasted in the wine.
This means that biodynamic winemakers must be willing to question the status quo. What motivates you to carry on with renewed vigour in difficult moments?
For me, biodynamics is a basic philosophy of life – it sustains you even when things get tough. Giving up is not an option. I came to organic farming because during my apprenticeship in French-speaking Switzerland and later, when I was abroad, I saw how many toxic products a conventional enterprise uses. And then I experienced the enhancement from organic to biodynamic. For me, biodynamics is associated with development and quality: development of the business, of one's own personality and openness towards each person.
